In an effort to make the most of this prison sentence 3 years we are living in Europe, we went to Venice on Monday. I think some people imagine that being stationed here means we are always zipping off on some fabulous, cultural jaunt. Not exactly. DH is almost always working. He went to Germany again last week and has to go back next week, and oh yeah, then he'll be gone for a year very soon. The kids do need to get school done most days. There's the dog that we can't leave alone for more than about 8 hours. Dropping her off somewhere to be watched or bringing her undisciplined butt with us adds a extra level of difficulty that makes the whole thing not worth it.
But Monday was an American holiday and we really hated that we have been here 3 months without visiting what was our favorite city during our first tour. And hey, didn't Columbus hang out in Venice? So we drove to the train station and parked (9 Euro, and I'm sure there were cheaper/free places to park, but we didn't realize how much it would be till the end of the day.) I stepped up and bought our train tickets (34 Euro) in fluent Italian, causing my husband to look at me like, "Wow, that was awesome."
- Don't get too impressed with my Italian. Yesterday I gave my neighbor a pomegranate from our tree. They've been giving me gorgeous bunches of leafy lettuce pulled right from the ground and I wanted to try and give something to them. I successfully asked if they would like a pomegranate and explained that they were almost ripe. Then I said that they were too heavy for the hotel. l'albero = tree. l'albergo = hotel.
Although it had been cool but sunny in Vicenza, when we stepped out of the train station in Venice, the clouds were low and gray and it was chilly. Still, it's always a sight to walk out of the train station and find the Grand Canal before you.
We set off walking to St. Mark's Square by way of the Rialto Bridge. There are signs painted on the buildings along the way, but it's still like walking through a crazy maze. We picked a good day, crowd-wise. I can remember going to Venice during Carnivale and spending hours shuffling our way through the streets, unable to escape the press of people.
Here's a tip for visiting Venice. If you see something in a store you might want, don't hesitate. Go in and look/buy it. You'll never find that store again. I had written down the address of a yarn store in Venice, thinking maybe I could stumble across it or use my iPhone to find it. Hah! No way. The streets are poorly marked, the numbering system is not in any way numerical, and the narrow walkways with tall buildings looming make it impossible to orient yourself. Venice's motto should be - "You'll Never Get Lost the Same Way Twice."
About half an hour of walking later we were starting to think about eating lunch. As the mist turned into drizzle and the drizzle turned into actual rain drops, we decided the time was right. After checking out several pizzerias that didn't appeal, we saw a restaurant that had a Menu Turistico posted in the window, 3 courses for 14 Euro each.
The first course - lasagna for DH & Grace, seafood pasta for Alex & I - was amazing. Real Italian pasta makes the Olive Garden fare taste like glue. We were eagerly looking forward to our next courses of baked chicken or fried squid, with french fries for our 3 course (real gourmets we are). What a disappointment. The chicken was boring and greasy. The squid wasn't bad, but really had no flavor beyond the breading and oil that fried it. The fries were good at least. The portions were rather small as well.
We had 2 liter bottles of water and 2 cappucinos and that brought our total to 71 Euro. That's expected for a really good dinner, but I hated paying that much for a below average lunch. I know Venice is overpriced because of the tourists, but c'mon. Anyway, minutes later, we were in St. Mark's Square.
The skies had cleared and other than the nasty pigeons everywhere, it was beautiful. Notice my new Noro stole that I haven't gotten around to blogging yet. I ended up using it for warmth quite a bit, especially when we went up to the top of the bell tower:
(I forgot to take a photo of the outside of the bell tower, so don't think this is mine.)
The line to ride the elevator to the top was only about 10 minutes and for 8 Euro each, we looked out and saw:
We looked down and saw:
It was so cold and windy up there! That lacy stole was the only thing keeping me warm and it didn't do a bad job. Yay for wool!
On our walk back to the train station, we had a terrible time finding the way. There don't seem to be as many signs directing you out of Venice and our feet were tired from making so many wrong turns by the time we crossed the last bridge. The Regionale trains make stops along the way but are about half the price of the Eurostar direct trains. Even still, the train going home was exceptionally pokey.
8 hours after leaving our house that morning, we made it back to our car and eventually figured out how to pay and get out of the lot.
Now, can you tell the other reason why we aren't always traveling the continent? It's freaking expensive here! The dollar is rather pitiful against the Euro right now. Not including the "Italia" sweatshirt we bought Grace to keep her warm or the few souvenirs, the total for the day was:
- Parking, 9
- Train tickets, 34
- Lunch, 71
- Bell tower admittance, 32
- Snack, 12
158 Euro. That's about $240. Not the kind of thing we can do every weekend. We definitely need to research more economic ways to take these kind of trips. Finding cheaper restaurants, certainly. Driving instead of taking the train, although gas is not only expensive but also rationed. What would help the most is if the dollar would gain some strength!
No matter the cost, it was a nice day together and I'm glad we went. For all it's flaws and pigeons, Venice is unique and breathtaking.