Forward Motion: Toe Up Heel Flap Sock Formula

It's a well documented fact on this blog that I've got big feet. Size 11 feet. With a low instep, so they really are kind of wedges, like Fred Flintstone feet.

Having big feet has been a problem. Particularly when I knit socks. My first several pairs were so tight across the top of my foot, right above the heel there, that they were unwearable. I'm not a sock knitting expert by any means and all of mine have been knit toe-up. My best fitting socks have been the ones that have gussets and heel flaps. (Technically, I'm not sure if you would still call it a heel flap, because you don't really knit a flap like you do in the traditional cuff down method. But I don't know what else to call it.) I need to be able to try them on and ~~I need to avoid grafting~~ I need to make sure I don't run out of yarn.

I like this method because I can make my gussets as big as I want to allow for my large heels. There is also no picking up stitches. I tried Lucia's Purple Sock Calculator, but because of my oversize feet, there is no calculator in existence that can work for me. So I did a little math and a lot of frogging and ended up with a simple, universal outline that I use for all my socks, no matter the yarn, the gauge, or the stitch pattern. A few people (okay, just Lis) have asked me to share the formula, so here it is. The next time I do a heel, I'll take step by step photos, but for now all I have to show is the finished heel.

I knit on 2 circular needles or using magic loop, so I'm just going to call the stitches on the top of the foot the instep stitches and the ones on the bottom of the foot the heel stitches. I'm going to assume you are familar with basic sock construction and you know how to use gauge to make sure the pattern and yarn will fit your foot.

Before you begin, ask yourself 2 questions. Can you subtract 8? Can you divide by 2? Also, find yourself 2 stitch markers.

Knit your preferred toe up sock pattern (Judy's Magic Cast-on is my favorite way to begin). Any pattern you like. Just make a note to yourself how many stitches you are using per needle. Knit until you are about 2 - 2.5 inches from the end of the foot.

Begin your gussets. You will always knit across the instep in pattern. I use this method of doing increases. I like the nice way they line up and there are no holes. Whatever way you do increases, let's agree to call it a Make 1 stitch (M1).

Gusset instructions - Round 1: Knit across your instep stitches. Begin your heel stitches and knit 2 stitches. Do a M1. Knit across the heel stitches until the last 2 stitches. Do a M1. Knit the last 2 stitches. Round 2: Knit a plain round.

Repeat the gusset instructions until your gussets are as large as you would like, then stop after Round 1. If you have an average foot, I suppose you would repeat the gussets instructions about 5 times. You will have increased 10 stitches on the heel. (2 stitches each row 5 times = 10 stitches).

Now for a little math. Find your note with how many stitches you were using per needle. Take that number and subtract 8. That is how many stitches you will be working the heel on. Let's call that number X. Now count how many heel stitches you currently have. Subtract X from the number of heel stitches you currently have. Let's call that answer Y. Divide Y by 2. Let's call that answer Z. Those are the stitches that you want isolate on either side of the heel with stitch marker.

You should be ready for Round 2 of the gusset instructions. Knit across the instep. Knit across the heel until there are Z stitches left. Place a marker. Knit across the instep again. Knit across the heel Z stitches and place marker. You should have an equal amount of stitches on either side of the markers.

Here's an example. If you were making a sock with 64 stitches in the round, you'd have 32 stitches per needle.

32-8 = 24 (X)

You did 5 repeats of the gusset instructions, so you currently have 42 stitches on the heel needle.

42-24 = 18 (Y)

18 / 2 = 9 (Z)

Your heel needle would have 9 stitches, a marker, 24 stitches, another marker, then 9 stitches.

Heel Turn -

Knit 1. M1. Knit to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Purl 1. M1. Purl to the 3rd to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Knit 1. M1. Knit to the 3rd to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Purl 1. M1. Purl to the 5th to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Knit 1. M1. Knit to the 5th to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Purl 1. M1. Purl to the 7th to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Knit 1. M1. Knit to the 7th to the last stitch before the marker. Wrap and turn.

Heel Flap -

Purl 1. M1. Purl across to the last stitch before the marker. Pick up your wraps as you go, if you want. Slip the last stitch to the right needle. Remove the marker. Slip that last stitch back to the left needle. Purl 2 together.

Turn work. (Do not wrap). Slip 1.

Knit across to the last stitch before the marker. Pick up those wraps if you choose. Slip that last stitch to the right needle. Remove the marker. Slip that last stitch back to the left needle. SSK.

*Turn work. Slip 1. Purl across to the last stitch before the gap where you turned before. P2tog.

Turn work. Slip 1. Knit across to the last stitch before the gap. SSK.*

Repeat the instructions between the **s.

Because you are slipping that first stitch each row, you should see gaps in the work between your P2tog and SSKs and the unworked gusset stitches. You will always be combining the stitches on either side of that gap with either a P2tog or a SSK.

When you've worked all of those stitches that used to be behind markers, you should be back to your original number of heel stitches and you'll be ready to work in the round again. You should be on a knit row and you'll just move on along.

Notes:

- I've described working the heel flap in stockinette, but you can also use other heel stitches. Just be sure to do an SSK or P2tog on the edge stitches and slip the first stitch of each row.

- If you have large heels, do larger gussets by repeating the gusset instructions. I usually use about 9-10 gusset rows. You will need to experiment to find out what size gusset best fits you.

- The more gusset rows you do, the sooner you will need to begin them. The heel turn and heel flap only takes an inch or so. If you start your gussets too late, the sock foot will be too long. Again, be prepared to experiment.

- After you've completed the heel, you may want to pick up a stitch between the heel and instep needles and knit it together with the last or first stitch. This can close any tiny gaps, if necessary.

- When working with solid color yarns, I usually pick up the wraps on the heel turn. If my yarn is multi-colored, as pictured above, I don't bother because the wraps blend right in.

- Please let me know if you have any questions or find incorrect instructions. I've never written out knitting directions before and it's much easier to just knit something rather than to try and coherently break it down into steps.

I hope this helps anyone who wants to use a heel flap for any toe up sock!