Today was walking day, so there was no lingering over my morning Diet Coke. I slathered on my 70 SPF sunscreen, did up my ponytail, and left the house by 8:30 to drive waaaay up the hill to my friend Vicki's house. Vicki is my walking/hiking friend and I'm going to miss her so very much when she moves to Germany next month. Not just for the walking thing, but it's true that there's no one that can make three hours of slogging up and down hills so much fun.
We've been knocking out 10 and 12 miles walks over the last few months. Since her house is 2 miles up a big old hill, we start there and have walked all over that freaking hill. (If you want to see maps and statistics of our adventures, I log them on RunKeeper. I think I've made the activities public, so hopefully anyone can see them.) Last time we went, it was a 12.75 mile walk that was more of a "holy crap, where the hell is your road and how do we get back to it" kind of stumble about. Luckily we didn't need to call for a rescue and some very nice Italian man didn't mind us walking up his driveway asking for water. In fact he called after us, "Have a nice walking!" in hesitant English, which I thought was adorable.
Anyway, Vicki had a plan today. She's been here two years and now she's moving away and she still hasn't been to the Rotunda. The Rotunda, or Villa Capra, was designed by the famous Italian architect Palladio. Look familiar?

(These aren't my photos in this post. I didn't take my camera, so thank you, random Google image result photographer.)
Thomas Jefferson visited there and went back to America like a copycat and built Monticello, that building on the back of the old nickels. I used to drive past the Rotunda every day on my way to work when I was here the first time, but I had never been in it either. It's privately owned, charges a hefty 10 Euro per person, and is only open one day a week, nine months of the year.
A few months ago, we'd walked the two miles down Vicki's hill and walked another two miles on a nice footpath till we were just in sight of the Rotunda, then turned around and walked back. So we figured today actually going to the building would be about a 9 mile walk.
And that's what we did. Culture is, of course, wasted on me. It's an old building with lots of intricate carving and fading frescoes. Seen lots of those. But Vicki was happy to say she'd seen it and there was a pretty view, at least. Leaving the Rotunda, we saw a path with a sign to another villa, Villa Valmarana, and Vicki told me the story she knew about this place. Supposedly, a man had a daughter who was a dwarf and he had statues of dwarves placed all around the villa so that she would feel more normal. That sounded like something to see, so we trotted up the path.
Aren't they sweet? We were out of Euro so we didn't go into the villa, but were able to walk all along the outer wall where the statues are.
I came home and did a little more research and found this explanation of the little people villa.
In Vicenza a visitor cannot miss a visit to the artistic and famous
villa Valmarana, the construction of which started 1669,
and which was frescoed by Tiepolo and his son in 1757. It is said
that once a rich and powerful prince had a gloomy castle built
here, surrounded by high walls, because he did not want his only
daughter Jana, a disfigured midget, to suffer seeing more handsome
people. Thus, all the servants that surrounded her were
midgets too. However, many youngsters were attracted by the
prince’s wealth and the girl’s beautiful face and came to ask for
her hand in marriage, but as soon as they discovered her deformity,
they found any pretext to go away. One day the poor girl fell
hopelessly in love with one of the many suitors, who, like all the
others before, had walked away upon seeing her. She went to the
balcony that overlooked the road and started to call the young
man and leant over so much, she fell down on the road and died.
It is said that the midgets (“nani”), who climbed upon the wall to
see what had happened, remained petrified from shock. They can
still be seen like that, as ornamental sculptures of the villa that
bears their name.
Some of the other stories claim that the daughter committed suicide, which is even sadder, but I have no idea if there's any truth to the stories of the "nanis".
Little people vs. Thomas Jefferson? No surprise that I enjoyed the strange dwarf villa more than the famous, noble, Palladian one.
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